2 Fantastic Road Trips Between Catania and Palermo

Tourists visiting Sicily often underestimate the size of this island, which is the largest in Italy. In fact, it is the largest island in the entire Mediterranean. Add to that the fact that the roads in mountainous Sicily are often winding, and you’ll understand that it takes much longer to cover the same distance than you might be used to at home.

If you want to see as much of this beautiful island as possible in a single vacation, renting a car for a so-called one-way trip is the perfect solution. You’ll pick up your reserved rental car at, say, Catania Airport and drop it off at Palermo Airport —or vice versa, of course. Or at Trapani Airport on the west coast. This way, you don’t have to return to your starting point and can make the most of your vacation.

Below, we describe two routes between these two cities: a relatively short one along the north coast (with side trips) and a longer one through the interior and along the south and west coasts. These are just examples; of course, you decide entirely for yourself how you’ll travel between Catania and Palermo, but know that a rental car for such a “one-way” trip is easy to arrange. Simply enter two different locations on our search form—where you want to pick up the rental car and where you want to drop it off —and we’ll show you only the rental cars for which that combination is available.

Want even more ideas for road trips on this incredibly beautiful island? Then read our blog post “3 Beautiful Road Trips in Sicily with a Rental Car.”

1. From Palermo to Catania via the northeast

Actually, the first question you should ask yourself if you want to travel from Palermo to Catania is: Do you love hairpin turns or not? If your answer is “yes,” then you’ll be in for a real treat in northern and northeastern Sicily. There are several routes, only a few of which we’ll describe here. The road right along the coast isn’t without its curves either, but they’re less sharp, and the view of the Mediterranean Sea is phenomenal. The best part is the combination: driving along the coast and regularly taking a detour through the mountains inland.

From Palermo, you can drive to Cefalù in an hour on the highway, but the SS113, which runs right along the north coast, is much more enjoyable. The trip takes twice as long (if you don’t stop anywhere), but from your rental car you’ll have an almost constant view of the Mediterranean Sea. Just before you reach Cefalù, there’s a stunning viewpoint overlooking this seaside town (see photo above). Cefalù is an enchanting little town with medieval streets, a Norman cathedral, and beautiful beaches.

Here you have the option to veer off the coastal route and drive your rental car along the winding roads of the Parco delle Madonie in your rental car. Breathtaking nature with high mountain peaks, interspersed with medieval villages and towns. Be careful, though, as the road surface can be poor, especially on smaller roads.

Back at the coast, a little further on, you’ll have a choice of many routes to Catania. The first is the SS289, which winds through the Nebrodi Mountains toward Mount Etna. This road is popular with motorcyclists and cyclists, so watch out for speed demons. In the mountains, you can take side roads to go hiking through the dense forests to waterfalls and impressive rock formations.

Further along, the SS116 and SS185 (leading to the picturesque village of Novara di Sicilia) are also delightful winding roads through the mountains in northeastern Sicily. If you have the time, we’d say: drive them all. Not a fan of hairpin turns? Then continue along the coastal road to Messina and take the A18 toll road or the SS114 through the seaside resorts of Giardini Naxos and Taormina to Catania. Performances are often held in Taormina’s impressive amphitheater. They’re very popular, so it’s best to book in advance.

You’ll drive past Mount Etna, which you can drive up to Rifugio Sapienza, where a cable car will take you further up.

2. From Catania to Palermo (or Trapani)

Choices, choices, choices. That’s basically what you’re always faced with when driving around Sicily in a rental car. Where should you go next? There’s so much to see and do! That’s also true of the route from Catania to Palermo (or Trapani). If you head to the southeast of the island first, you can explore the beautiful historic center of Syracuse on the islet of Ortigia, visit the charming town of Noto, and drive along the spectacular SP58 to picturesque Ragusa.

South of Noto, you’ll find one of Sicily’s best beaches: Spiaggia di Calamosche. This beach is located in the Vendicari Nature Reserve, so there are no hotels or other amenities. You’ll need to pay for admission to the nature reserve and for parking your rental car. It’s about a ten-minute walk from the parking lot to the beach.

You can also drive directly west from Catania to visit the historic town of Enna, which sits high on a steep mountain like an impregnable fortress. The cathedral is by no means the only church in Enna’s maze of narrow streets; there’s another old church on nearly every corner. The Castello di Lombardia is one of the most impressive medieval castles in Sicily, and from the Torre Pisana you’ll enjoy a panoramic view of the surrounding area.

Next, drive through the historic towns of Caltanissetta and Canicattì to Agrigento. The city’s main attraction is the Valley of the Temples, a vast area featuring impressive ruins of Greek temples and remnants of the city of Akragas—as Agrigento was known in ancient times.

There are spectacular beaches nearby, including the famous Scala dei Turchi (Turkish Steps), a natural, snow-white limestone formation near Realmonte. It does tend to get crowded there, though. Also beautiful—and much less crowded—are the beaches further to the west: Heraclea Minoa and Capo Bianco.

Can’t get enough of driving on winding roads? Then skip the coastal route and head through the Monti Sicani and Monte Genuardo mountains to the colorful fishing village of Sciacca. The medieval center is surrounded by city walls, and three ancient gates are still intact. In the surrounding area, you can take a dip in one of the sulfur thermal springs.

Once again, you’re faced with a choice: drive straight through the interior to Palermo, or take the route along Sicily’s rugged west coast. If you choose the latter, be sure to stop at the sprawling archaeological park of Selinunte and the beautiful town of Mazara del Vallo, where the Arab influence is clearly visible in the narrow streets.

The Moors also left their mark on the city of Marsala on the west coast—if only in its name, which is derived from the Arabic “Marsa Allah” (Port of Allah). Marsala also has a stunning historic center and is known for the dessert wines bearing the same name.

Halfway between Marsala and Trapani lies the airport, which is primarily used by Ryanair, nestled amid vast salt flats. Not only is salt harvested here, but it’s also a protected nature reserve where birds—including flamingos—thrive. Just east of Trapani lies the beautiful medieval fortified town of Erice. From the town, you can enjoy spectacular views—and the winding road leading there offers stunning scenery as well. Or you can take the cable car from Trapani to Erice. Near the starting point, you can park your rental car in a large parking lot.

Further north, you’ll reach what many consider to be Sicily’s most beautiful beach, San Vito Lo Capo. It gets particularly crowded there during the summer months, but you can drive your rental car to nearby alternatives. For example, one of the seven secluded coves along the coast of the Zingaro Nature Reserve. You’ll have to walk there, though, because you’re not allowed to drive your rental car into the nature reserve. The beach closest to the northern entrance is Cala Tonnarella dell’Uzzo (a ten-minute walk); from the southern entrance, it’s a fifteen-minute walk to Cala Capreria. For outdoor enthusiasts, the hiking trails through this nature reserve are highly recommended.

On your way to the airport in the Sicilian capital or to Palermo itself, stop at Castellammare del Golfo. The town has beautiful sights, such as the 14th-century Castello a mare. You’ll also find long, sandy beaches stretching along the bay east of the town all the way to Balestrate.

From Balestrate, take the SS186 through the mountains to the village of Monreale. Along the way, you’ll enjoy beautiful views of the bay, and from Monreale, you can see the whole of Palermo. In Monreale, follow the signs marked “parcheggio” to reach a large parking lot along Via Ignazio Florio.

Zona a Traffico Limitato (ZTL) in Sicily

Many historic centers of Italian towns and villages have restrictions on driving. Only cars with a permit are allowed, but sometimes this restriction applies only at certain times. The website Accessibilità Centri Storici provides an up-to-date overview of where and when you can and cannot drive, including tips for parking your rental car around these environmental zones. Be sure never to drive past the sign marked “Zona a Traffico Limitato” when the restrictions are in effect, as there are cameras immediately beyond it and the fines are steep.