Northern Finland is an exotic destination in every season, characterized by vast primeval forests, pristine lakes and rivers, and—in the far north—a mountainous landscape. A unique wilderness that you can fully enjoy in every season. But Finnish Lapland (in Finnish: Lappi Lääni) is especially magical in winter when everything is covered in a thick layer of snow.
There’s only one way to truly experience Finnish Lapland: by renting a car. But that immediately raises the question of where to pick up that rental car. Most people choose the airport in Rovaniemi, the capital of Lapland, but did you know there are other airports that offer good connections, especially in winter? Lapland’s second-largest airport is Kittilä Airport, where you’ll also find a wide selection of car rental companies. Kittilä is located in western Lapland, near popular winter sports areas. The northernmost airport is Ivalo Airport, nestled amid rugged nature and near the large Lake Inarijärvi. Officially just outside Lapland, but close enough, is Kuusamo Airport, near the winter sports resort of Ruka.
Even if you’re only going to a specific winter sports destination, renting a car can be a great solution. For example, you could rent a cabin in the quiet, peaceful woods, far away from crowded ski resorts. You can then use the rental car to drive to the various slopes or take a day trip to a national park.
Here we describe a road trip that starts in Rovaniemi, but the route isn’t far from the airports mentioned above, so you can also start this tour from other locations.
From Rovaniemi, take the E75 east. Park your rental car at Vikaköngäs for a short hike along wooden boardwalks to the suspension bridge over the rapids of the Vaattunkijoki River. A little further on, take Kantatie (Main Road) 82 to Kemijärvi, which lies in the heart of the Lapland lake district. A popular summer destination for many Finns, but also fantastic during the cold season. Various trails lead to lookouts with stunning winter vistas. There’s usually a designated spot where you can build a campfire. Follow the ice road across the frozen water to reach the luxurious Suomu Ski Resort.
Another ski resort, Pyhä, is located about 50 kilometers north of Kemijärvi, on the edge of Pyhä-Luosto National Park. In winter, you can downhill and cross-country ski in this hilly region with deep gorges and ancient forests. Siberian jays emerge from the woods when you stop for a picnic. Curiosity? Perhaps, but they’re mainly after your picnic basket.
From here, it’s a challenging drive (250 kilometers) to Ivalo. Allow plenty of time and stop your rental car along the way at some of the beautiful spots along the rivers and lakes. Just past the bridge over the Vuotso Canal, a road (Sompiojärventie) leads to the Pyhä-Nattanen viewpoint in the Sompio Nature Reserve. The final rocky stretch is quite steep and not suitable for people who aren’t in good physical condition. A little further along Main Route 4 lies the gold-mining town of Tankavaara. At the museum, you’ll learn more about the history of the gold rush in this area, and you can even try your hand at finding a nugget of gold!
Tankavaara is one of the gateways to the vast Urho Kekkonen National Park, which extends all the way to the Russian border. Further along Main Route 4, you can also drive to the park in your rental car, including stops at Kiilopää and Saariselkä. The latter serves as a starting point for snowmobile tours during the winter months.
From Ivalo, drive right along Lake Ukonjärvi to Inari, the center of Sámi culture. About 15 kilometers before you reach the town, stop at the “bear’s nest” Karhunpesäkivi, a large hollow boulder. If you climb a little higher, you’ll have a beautiful view of the surrounding area. Inari is beautifully situated on the lake of the same name, which is dotted with countless densely forested islands. Be sure to visit the Siida Museum, dedicated to the Sami way of life and the natural history of the area. It also serves as a visitor center for the region’s many national parks.
Inari’s location is perfect for the Northern Lights, but there’s a lot of light pollution in the town itself. And the less ambient light there is, the more beautiful the Northern Lights are. Fortunately, the surrounding area consists of sparsely populated wilderness. So drive out there in your rental car to fully enjoy the light show, which can be seen about 200 days a year. And now let’s just hope you’re not there on one of the other 165 days. By the way, there are other ways to wait for the Northern Lights. For example, there are igloo-style accommodations in various locations, with glass roofs. There is, however, a chance you’ll fall asleep in such a comfortable igloo…
If you drive 45 kilometers southwest from Inari in your rental car, you’ll reach Finland’s largest national park, Lemmenjoki. The vast majority of it consists of pure wilderness: hills, rocks, and river valleys covered in dense pine forests and interspersed with vast marshes.
Even further to the southwest lies Kittilä Airport, and if you follow Highway 80 from there, you’ll arrive in Ylläsjärvi, which is also beautifully situated on a lake of the same name. Nearby is the Ylläs Ski Resort, where one of the gondolas has been converted into a sauna! In addition to skiing, you can go snowboarding, ice climbing, snowshoeing, or on a reindeer safari. The nearby village of Äkäslompolo is the gateway to Pallas-Yllästunturi National Park. It’s often said that you breathe the purest air in the world there. In winter, you can go on multi-day ski tours in this sprawling park.
From Kolari, you can follow a scenic route along the Torne, the river that forms the border with Sweden. If winter conditions permit, take a rental car along Road 9381; otherwise, take Highway 21 (E8), which runs right alongside the river a little further south.
In Pello, you can take the turnoff to Rovaniemi, but you’ve rented a car to have some flexibility, so why not drive on a bit to Kemi, on the shores of the Gulf of Bothnia? Every winter, the world’s largest snow castle is built there. You can spend the night there, but you can also just stop by for a visit. You can also take a trip from Kemi on the icebreaker Sampo, where halfway through the journey you’ll put on special suits to float among the ice floes in the Gulf of Bothnia. It’s not cheap, but it’s a unique experience.
From Kemi, it’s about a 120-kilometer drive to Rovaniemi in a rental car. The fastest way to cover that distance is via Highway 4 (E75), but the narrower road running right alongside the wide Kemijoki River is more scenic.
Back in Rovaniemi, a visit to the Arktikum is a must. In this large museum, you’ll learn all about the unique climate of the Arctic and how people have adapted to it. At the end of the long domed walkway, you’ll have a beautiful view of the Ounasjoki River.
Except around major cities, there are no multi-lane highways in Finland. They aren’t necessary anyway, as there’s very little traffic on the roads—except, of course, near cities. What you do need to watch out for are animals roaming freely, especially at sunrise and sunset. Especially in Lapland, you may encounter moose, reindeer, and deer calmly walking across the road or suddenly crossing it. So always keep both hands on the steering wheel of your rental car and look far ahead—not just at the road, but especially at the shoulders! In areas where reindeer or moose are common, signs will warn you of their presence. Adjust your speed accordingly.
Finnish main roads are well maintained and quickly cleared of snow after a winter snowstorm. You can identify main roads by their road numbers: roads with 1 or 2 digits are main roads. Roads with three digits are secondary roads, and local roads are designated by four digits. These last two categories—as well as more remote main roads—are not always cleared of snow immediately. Sometimes you’ll drive on such roads over packed snow. Roads that appear to be clear of snow may still be slippery due to black ice or sections of wet road that have frozen over. This is especially true at temperatures around freezing, when meltwater from snow along the roadside flows onto the roadway and freezes again there.
If the temperature drops below zero, it’s a good idea to warm up the engine of your rental car before you set off. Virtually every car rented in Finland has an engine heater, which you simply plug into a standard outlet.
Don’t let the warnings above deter you from renting a car for a wonderful snowy vacation in Finnish Lapland. After a day of driving your rental car, you’ll be completely accustomed to driving in winter conditions, and with a little caution, you’ll enjoy a carefree vacation in the winter wonderland of Finnish Lapland.
Any car you rent in the winter comes standard with winter tires, as they’re required in Finland from November 1 through March 31. In Lapland, this period is even longer: from mid-October through the end of April. If you’re renting a car in southern Finland during those months and plan to drive to the Arctic Circle, be sure to check whether winter equipment is included or if you need to book it as an extra.
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